Rolling and Sheet Thickness

The sheet is the foundation of every cut and filled pasta. Get the thickness right and everything else falls into place.

Target thicknesses

• Pappardelle — 1.5 mm — machine setting 5
• Tagliatelle, fettuccine — 1 mm — setting 6
• Lasagne sheets — 1 mm — setting 6
• Ravioli, tortellini — 0.5 mm — setting 7–8
• Capelli d angelo — as thin as you dare — setting 9

The machine method

1. Divide rested dough into 4 pieces. Keep three covered.
2. Flatten one piece into a rectangle that fits the rollers.
3. Pass through setting 1. Fold in thirds (like a letter). Pass again. Repeat 3–4 times — this finishes the kneading.
4. Without folding, pass through settings 2, 3, 4… stopping at the thickness you want.
5. Flour the sheet lightly between passes if it gets sticky.

The hand method (mattarello)

The traditional way. A long, smooth rolling pin and a wide wooden board.

1. Push the rolling pin forward from the middle, rotating the sheet a quarter-turn each pass.
2. Wrap the far edge around the pin, roll the pin toward you to stretch.
3. Work in all directions until the sheet is even and thin enough that you can read newsprint through it.

This takes practice. Twenty minutes for one sheet is normal at first. Five minutes when you are good. The Bolognese sfogline (women who roll for a living) do it in 90 seconds.

How to know it is thin enough

Lift the sheet. Hold it up to a window. If you can see the silhouette of your fingers clearly behind it, you are at ravioli thickness. If you can see the texture of your skin, you are at angel hair.

The taste test

Pinch a corner, blanch it 30 seconds, taste. If it is tender with a slight bite, the thickness is right. If it is tough, go thinner next time.

Resting cut shapes

Once cut, let ribbons dry on a floured towel or hung on a wooden rack for 20–30 minutes before cooking. This firms the surface and prevents sticking in the pot.