Bucatini alla Gricia

Before there was carbonara, there was gricia. Shepherds in the hills outside Rome carried pecorino, black pepper, and guanciale in their packs. No eggs, no cream — just the pure, unadorned marriage of aged sheep's cheese, cured pork jowl, and the sting of pepper. It's austere, intense, and arguably more satisfying than its famous descendant.

1. 1

   Render the guanciale

   8 min

   Cut guanciale into batons. Start in a cold heavy skillet over medium-low heat. Render slowly until fat is translucent and edges are amber-crisp, 8 minutes. Kill the heat.

   Chef's note · Starting cold lets the fat render evenly without seizing.

2. 2

   Toast the pepper

   1 min

   Crack peppercorns coarse. Add to the rendered fat and warm gently 30 seconds until fragrant.

3. 3

   Cook pasta short

   8 min

   Boil bucatini 2 minutes under al dente. Reserve 1.5 cups of very starchy pasta water.

4. 4

   Build the cheese cream

   2 min

   In a bowl, whisk pecorino with 3-4 tbsp warm (not hot) pasta water until you have a thick, sandy paste.

5. 5

   Emulsify

   2 min

   Drain pasta into the guanciale pan (off heat). Toss 30 seconds to coat in fat. Add the pecorino paste and a splash of pasta water. Toss vigorously until glossy. Add more water as needed.

6. 6

   Plate

   1 min

   Twirl into warm bowls. Crown with extra pecorino and a final heavy crack of pepper.