Tortellini in Brodo

In Bologna and Modena, Christmas means tortellini in brodo. The shape is said to be modeled on Venus's navel; the filling is a triumvirate of three cured meats and Parmigiano. The broth must be crystal clear, the tortellini smaller than a fingernail — this is pasta as ceremony.

1. 1

   Make the broth

   210 min

   Combine capon, beef, vegetables, water in pot. Bring to a bare simmer. Skim for 30 minutes, then simmer 3 hours uncovered.

2. 2

   Strain and clarify

   60 min

   Strain through fine sieve. Chill — fat will rise. Skim before reheating. Salt only at the end.

3. 3

   Make the filling

   20 min

   Sauté pork loin in butter until just cooked. Mince finely with prosciutto and mortadella. Mix with Parmigiano, yolk, nutmeg.

4. 4

   Roll the dough

   50 min

   Knead flour and eggs 10 minutes. Rest 30 minutes. Roll to thinnest setting (you should read newsprint through it).

5. 5

   Shape the tortellini

   60 min

   Cut 3 cm squares. Place a pea of filling on each. Fold diagonally, then wrap around a fingertip and pinch.

6. 6

   Cook in broth

   3 min

   Drop tortellini into simmering broth. They cook in 2-3 minutes. Serve in broth with extra Parmigiano alongside.